Travelling in Namibia

Find out more about Wild at Heart Safaris in Namibia.Wild at Heart Safaris is a young Namibian-owned and based Safari Company, that specialises in Adventure and Luxury Safaris for small groups and families.

Lions in the wild

The safari started off in Windhoek, and would eventually end up there again. What happened between the start and the finish was a safari of great pleasure. I was joined on the trip by two (2) men hailing from Edinburgh, Mark and Stefan.   Visiting the Waterberg Game Reserve will and always is a delight. The majestic sandstone cliffs with the plains at your feet are a sight to behold. Sitting on top of the Waterberg Plateau and watching the sun paint brilliant colours all around you is difficult to describe.  Getting up the next morning and hearing the call of the Dassies and Baboons make you realise, you are in Africa.

Onguma were to be our next stop. One of the “Jewels of Namibia” Onguma offers tranquillity and peace of mind. Pitching camp under a Leadwood tree and starting the fire for dinner is one of the many pleasures of a camping safari. After dinner all of us would just sit around the fire and listen to the night music that Namibia has to offer. This became the trend for the rest of the safari.   Entering Etosha National Park at Namutoni, another adventure began. Wildlife of different shapes and sizes, everywhere to see. Stopping at different water holes to observe, and to enjoy this spectacle of nature in its full glory. At Halali lunch was had. After lunch we took the road that would eventually bring us to Okaukuejo, and from there we would leave Etosha via the Anderson gate. Around 14:10 we spotted two lions lying under the shade of a Camel thorn tree. We really thought that this was a very good sighting, not knowing what lay ahead.

As we were driving, we saw 3 Springbuck sprinting away at high speed. Wondering what they were up to as we drove past, we saw another Springbuck laying on the ground and kicking. Suddenly realising it is a kill taking place; all of us were extremely alert. Stopping and having a better look, we spotted the leopard, its jaws still clamped over the nose of the Springbuck. Laying absolutely dead still, just staring at us. It was as if time slowed down. Seeing the dust particles in the air, smelling the dust, hearing the wind in the Mopane leaves, while watching this majestic and most elusive of all predators, with its prey. After spending about 45 minutes just observing we had to carry on. All three of us elated at seeing such a rare spectacle taking place.

The next couple of days we would move into North-Western Namibia and focus more on the cultural aspect of Namibia.  The Himba people of Kaokoland are a unique and friendly tribe that inhabits this part of Namibia. Stefan wandering around as a traditional dance took place about 200 meters from our campsite. I could see the amazement and wonder in his eyes when he returned. Such is the people of Namibia; they crawl into your heart and stay forever.

Driving to Sesfontein, the cultural aspect was slowly being replaced by the landscapes around us: from mountains carved by erosion to plains in their stark beauty. Slowly we made our way to Ongongo which was to be our camp for the night. Again, another surprise awaited us. A huge natural rock pool, complete with waterfall, greeted us at our campsite.  Needless to say, the first thing that was done was to have a swim to get some of the dust of Kaokoland out of our hair. What a stunning campsite it turned out to be.Moving into Damaraland, we headed for the rock engravings at Twyfelfontein. Camping that evening at another community campsite, Aba-Huab, we prepared for the rugged part of our journey that was ahead.

Climbing the Doros Crater is another highlight on the safari.  Seeing the rugged beauty of Damaraland from 200 meters up is something to behold. Camping wild in the Doros River added another dimension to a camping safari. While the guys were walking around and exploring, the camp was put up and as usual, the fire started. That night we slept under the starry blanket of the southern skies.   Travelling further south, we passed the Brandberg and soon had Spitskoppe in our sights. Again, the landscape is of such beauty that we had to stop every now and again to try and capture it on camera. The Bushmen paintings and the sheer raw beauty of the granite rock formations had all of us silent.  Spitskoppe is a truly special place.

The last part of our 13 day safari took us to the highest dunes in the world. Sossusvlei, especially Deadvlei, is indescribably beautiful. The colours of the white pan, with the black trees, against a backdrop of huge orange sand dunes provides a kaleidoscope of colours that is difficult to find anywhere else in the world.  Add to that an Oryx on the skyline, and you have the setting for a perfect photo. So it happened. Stefan followed an Oryx for what seemed an eternity, but finally got a photo of which he can be very proud.   All good things have to end somewhere, and the same goes for our safari. Taking the Spreetshoogte pass, we returned to Windhoek. All the sights, sounds and smells will remain in our hearts.  And before long, I think Mark and Stefan will be back to explore more of this beautiful country called Namibia.

Find out more about Wild at Heart Safaris in Namibia.Wild at Heart Safaris is a young Namibian-owned and based Safari Company, that specialises in Adventure and Luxury Safaris for small groups and families.

Climbing Brandberg Mountain in Namibia | Adventure in Africa | Wild at Heart 

His name is Joakim Jonsson, a Swedish native now living in London, England. Joakim completed the 120 Kilometre Namibia Ultra Marathon in 22 hours 40 minutes during his first visit to Namibia.

Brandberg - Namibias highest peak

So, the safari started at Sossusvlei, renowned for its very high sand dunes (as if we did not know that – but more on this later). Joakim is a professional photographer, meaning first light and last light is his favourite time, and the rest of the day can be used for other activities. After photographing the haunting beauty of Deadvlei, it was so decided that we would see what Witberg looks like. Though this track is only 5 km in a straight line, it took nearly seven hours until we reached our vehicle – tired, but totally satisfied. The experience was magical: entirely alone in the dunes, sitting on the high crest and looking over the “sand sea” , just dunes and more dunes as far as the eye can see. Witberg was the only rocky outcrop in this “sea of sand”…. That evening, sleep came easy.

The next leg of the journey was Damaraland, a wilderness with landscapes that take one’s breath away. First, of course, the highest mountain in Namibia, Brandberg had to be conquered. Konigstein, at 2573 meters, with a view of all the plains below, was in our sight. With our backpacks weighing about 20 Kg, mainly water, we began the journey. Stopping at several Bushmen paintings on the way, the mountain began its to cast its spell. Extremely rugged, but so utterly beautiful, we continued walking. We pitched camp at 1990 meters, and had our compulsory meal of dried food before going to bed. The blanket of stars above us is just too difficult to describe. As the last wood burned away, we fell asleep safe under southern skies.

The next day, we reached Konigstein at 09:00. After phoning family and friends, we headed down again. Stopping at “Snake Rock” to witness and marvel how the San people used the rock canvas, we took a rest. Walking down is easier on the lungs, but so much harder on the legs, and this was felt when we stopped for lunch. (We met another group of hikers going up, and what joy it was to know we are going the opposite way!) At 16:48, we reached the vehicle again. Muscles slowly becoming cold, we just sat and talked about the hike around our campfire.

The elusive desert elephant was next on our safari. The afternoon drive failed in the sense that we did not find elephant, but we began to realize one thing that is so easy to come by in Namibia: space and silence. Again, another day not wasted.

Early the next morning, with the sun displaying Brandberg in a new light, we took off.   We found our beloved desert elephants- a breeding herd of twelve animals, two of which were very small calves. We took great care not disturb them, so we simply sat and watched as they went about their business of feeding, playing and rolling around in the soft sand of the Ugab River.   The ancient Doros crater was our next stop. Climbing 240 Meters to the top, this is one of my favourite places in Namibia. This is a place where the wind is strong, the sun is in your face, and one can let the greyhounds of the soul run free. This is, was and will always be Doros, with a view of the Huab Mountains, and then the endless plains that seems to stretch forever.

Etosha, ‘the great white place’, was to be our home for the last couple of days of the safari. Once again, ‘first light and last light’ were of extreme importance. To see the sun rise in all its glory in Namibia is a sight to behold. The red ball slowly rising with a majestic camel thorn tree in the foreground will forever stay with me.   Another big hit was the waterhole at Okaukuejo; giraffes, Elephants, lions and mating Black Rhino to name but a few of its visitors. Joakim spent a large part of the night just observing, and watching him from a distance I could see one thing: the Norseman was at peace with life and Namibia.

Inevitably the end had to come. Our last campsite was called Aloe Ridge, and what a site it was. For one last time we could watch the sun set in all its glory. The next day it was time for goodbyes, and so it was.

One last thing to be said: I know Joakim will be back. Namibia – the space, the beauty, just about everything here – gets into your blood. See you again, Swede.

Author: Kobus Alberts   | Find out more about Wild at Heart Safaris in Namibia. Wild at Heart Safaris is a young Namibian-owned and based Safari Company, that specialises in Adventure and Luxury Safaris for small groups and families.

Unspoilt Namibia

Recently, the Wild at Heart Safaris team was contacted by the Namibian Coast Conservation and Management Project (NACOMA) to lead an expedition into the sand sea of the Namib Desert. The aim of the visit was to familiarize the Hardap Regional Council with their coastline and to look at potential ways of generating funds for this region.

The expedition consisted of two Wild at Heart Safaris guides, three NACOMA members, one Fisheries and Marine Resources member, and seven Hardap Regional Council Members: the Honourable Governor, Me. K.M. Hansen, and Member of Parliament, the Honourable B. Namwandi (the two main figures on the trip).

The expedition started at Rooibank, on the south bank of the Kuiseb River. From here on in, driving in and on dunes would be the only option left. The Shawnee, a shipwreck near Conception Bay, was first on our list. We reached the Shawnee at 14:00. The next shipwreck to be visited was the Eduard Bohlen. The Bohlen ran aground in 1909, and is now laying 400 Meters inland. The night’s camp was pitched at the old customs office of times gone by.

The next day we traversed more dunes and visited the diamond towns of the area. Everyone was amazed at the determination of the diamond diggers of that time.Camp for the evening was 50 meters away from the cold Atlantic Ocean. That night, the fog came in, and it was cold and very wet the next morning. Not a good sign. As we travelled further south the fog increased in density, so much so, that the vehicle convoy had to stop for 2 hours to wait for the fog blanket to lift. At 11:00 that morning, we could start driving again, and reached Sylvia Hill at about 15:40.   We pitched camp at a lovely site perched high on the dunes overlooking St. Francis Bay.

The next morning was spent visiting the penguins that live in close proximity. From there, two more landmarks in the form of an old Ford and a bulldozer were visited before we had lunch in the dunes, just north of the Hauchab Mountains. Our plan was to reach Witberg that afternoon. It so happened and we made our camp in the shade of Witberg. Luckily the wind did not reach our campsite, as it was enclosed on three sides by the mountain. Slowly our time was running out, but everyone was in good spirits for the day that was ahead us.

The last day of our expedition also provided us with the largest dunes in the world. One slip face we went down measured 140 meters, which is quite high to say the least. After exiting near Dune 45, the whole team met up at Sossus Dune Lodge for a farewell lunch.

The sand sea of the Namib is brutal and merciless to those that enter without knowledge. Members of Wild at Heart Safaris know the area, respect the area and above all, have an intense love for this unspoiled wilderness. The undulating dunes, the crashing waves of the Atlantic Ocean, the strong wind that is ever present, and the sun in your face will always draw you back to this place deep in the heart of Namibia.

Author: Kobus Alberts | Find out more about Wild at Heart Safaris in Namibia. Wild at Heart Safaris is a young Namibian-owned and based Safari Company, that specialises in Adventure and Luxury Safaris for small groups and families.

Fish River Canyon, Namibia – the second largest canyon in the world and one of the best treks in Africa.

The following is a little description of my adventures along the Fish River Canyon hike. Kobus Alberts, Director Wild at Heart Safaris – Namibia

The trip started at Okahanje Lodge, 70kms north of Windhoek, at 0430 on the 23rd august and we travelled more then 700kms south to reach Hobas at about 1530 and start the first part of the Canyon hike.

The food bags were organised, backpacks loaded up and we got a lift to the main look out which was also the start of our hike.It was an impressive awesome sight and i was bubbling with excitement. There were folks there admiring the views and i remember feeling how lucky i was to get the chance to go to the bottom and walk 85kms following the meandering course of the river to Ai-Ais.

The first part of the descent was very steep but plenty of chains to hang onto and guide you down,at times it was a bit awkward with a big pack and “short” legs but all you had to do was stop and gaze around you at the magnificence of it all.

We got to the base as darkness fell and set up camp beside the river,which was to be our water supply for the next five days.I cannot come close to describing how wonderful it was to sleep under the stars every night…..we were lucky to have clear skies and no interference from any artificial light sources and the impressive southern cross was a friendly sight every night.

Our first full day had us doing lots of boulder hopping and along the way spotted some wildlife including Oryx, Klipspringer and a family of  curious baboons.The rock formations were truely spectacular and looking up you could sometimes see where the lookouts were,550metres above!

On a few nights when the wind was gentle we enjoyed sitting around the campfire, this added to the atmosphere and probably kept the bugs away too.   Arriving at the Palm Sulphur Springs was a wonderful surprise and a welcome relief for tired feet.  A lot of the hiking was along the sandy river bed and we had no problems when it came to crossing over.  The daytime temperatures were perfect for hiking and as the days went by the packs got lighter as the food got eaten.

We had quite a few opportunities for having a swim in the river,which wasn’t as cold as i expected and a welcome opportunity to freshen up.  The path was easy to follow and every now and then we would come across an arrow made from animal bones pointing us in a particular direction, lots of scattered stone cairns did the samething.

Along the way we passed a small motorbike, intact but a bit rusted and a skeleton next to it……i thought it was human and some poor soul had come to their end but i was reassured that it was a baboon skeleton.A lonely pair of well worn hiking boots were abandoned on a massive boulder. Always there were hundreds of footprints around but we only ever met up with one other group,the vastness and solitude was fabulous.

We passed the German soldiers grave and as the height of the canyon started to get smaller were lucky enough to spot a lone wild horse.  It was with some sadness that on thursday 28th i woke up to my last morning of the hike,the sunrises and light changes were superb and the first sound of the “outside” world was of the workers at Ai-Ais who were busy doing renovations.  Suddenly we had toilets again and many other people around and trucks and bottled drinks.

The Fish River Canyon Hike was more than i could ever have imagined,it was a fantastic experience all topped off by seeing zebras on the way back to Hobas on the bus. We also revisited all of the look outs and were able to peer down on where we had walked the previous five days.I thoroughly recommend this hike to other visitors to Namibia.

Author: Kobus Alberts   | Find out more about Wild at Heart Safaris in Namibia. Wild at Heart Safaris is a young Namibian-owned and based Safari Company, that specialises in Adventure and Luxury Safaris for small groups and families.

Wild at Heart Safaris, Namibia signs up to International SOS

Wild at Heart Safaris joined International SOS, who is the world’s leading provider of medical assistance in remote areas, international healthcare, security services and outsourced customer care.

Our country provides for world class private hospitals, but these are not worth a penny if you can’t access them. Recently, our team decided that investing in the safety of our clients should be a major priority, especially seeing that we spend so much time in remote areas.

We have always thrived in creating itineraries that gives clients a taste of wilderness and thereby creating some of the most memorable experiences ever. It is unfortunately, also true that accidents happen at times least expected. This becomes even more of a problem when an accident happens in one of the remote areas of Namibia.

We are wild at heart, yet responsible…

Wild at Heart your home from home for adventure | family trips | Safaris

Wild at Heart launch new look website for adventures, safaris and family adventures in Namibia

Wild at Heart adventures | family adventures | safaris in Namibia

After a lot of work behind the scenes Wild at Heart have just launched their new website – we are really excited about it and are over-the-moon with the look but have a look and let give us your feedback.

The backbone for site is the navigation engine which gives you the ability to search the Namibian site by different trip categories – for example you can now search by ‘activity‘ such as Driving Safaris or by ‘accommodation‘ like Safari Lodges and Hotels or by ‘themes‘ like Child Friendly or Adventure – the choice is yours.

Wild at Heart unparelled experience and eye for detail and competitively priced packages is making us the first stop for many people visiting Namibia with adventure in their hearts.

Wild at Heart your home for Adventure in Namibia

Climbing the Brandberg 6 – 10 July 2008 by Wild at Heart Safaris

The Brandberg is Namibia’s highest mountain. Königstein is the highest peak at 2573 meters.

About the Author: Kobus Alberts is 34 years of age and is married with 2 children. He was born in Usakos, Namibia, and is currently living in Swakopmund. He holds a diploma in Nature Conservation and has spent 11 Years of his life living in most of the National Parks and Game Reserves of Namibia. He has most recently been heading up the National Marine Aquarium of Namibia in Swakopmund, a position he held for 5 years and is now a director of Wild at Heart Safaris and Namibian owned travel company unique is that it was established entirely by ex-game rangers with a love of thier country.  email: info@wildatheartsafaris.com

On the 6^th of July I, Steffen Oesterle, Volker Mohrholz and Toralf Heene started the climb to Königstein.

We left at 14:00, with the aim to overnight in the area near to Springbokwasser. (Just to put the distances and height a bit into perspective, you need to know the following.  The vehicle was stopped at the foot of the Brandberg at a height of 700 meter. The total distance from the vehicle to Königstein, using a GPS, was 11 Kilometre)

Following a footpath it looked really easy, until the footpath disappeared. After some boulder scrambling, we found a trail again and this trail led us straight to camp.

Passing by Springbokwasser I were nicely surprised to see this very strong fountain. Even more to my surprise were the Bushmen painting close by. It depicts 2 Springbuck and a human standing behind them. It is very clear and the colours have been brilliantly preserved. A stunning Bushmen painting. 200 Meter further, in a straight line, and about 150 meters higher were our camp. This is one of the few places where there was level ground for sleeping purposes.  Also in the area we found some “stone circles” from previous times.  The saddle near Springbokwasser seems to be a well known place to both mountain climbers and to the people from earlier times.

We covered 3, 45 Kilometre and gained 484 meters in height.  It took us 4 hours to achieve the first walk to camp.

The highest temperature during the day was 31, 4ºC and the coldest 12, 9°C.

The second day started with coffee and some muesli for breakfast. Today would be the big climb as we aim to reach the plateau by evening. Instead of following the Hungurob valley, we found a trail that skirts the mountain side.

This gives you some exceptional views of the valley below as you continue to climb.  The trail itself is used regularly, but that does not make it easier, as the climb is mainly straight up.

Lunch was had at another strong spring on the valley floor. At this point there is a split in the valley and we take the steeper of the two valleys presented to us, of course. This is still part of the Hungurob, so the climb continues. Finally reaching the plateau I received a strange surprise.  All the while I was under the impression that the plateau would be relatively flat, but oh man was I wrong!!! As far as the eye can see it is just more rolling hills and valley, but this is the plateau as the climbing becomes less steep from this point onwards. After a long lunch stop we carry on, climbing once again. At the “Waterfall” we fill up our water bottles and explore the area.  Again some good Bushmen paintings are found.

Close to our camp for the night we came upon the famous “Snake Rock” Bushmen paintings. An extremely good site, with at least 30 or more, pictures of several different kinds.

Our camp for the night is not well sheltered but to make up for this we have a view that is breathtaking. As the sun sets the colours form a painting of the plains below our feet. That evening we could see the lights of a town called HentiesBay as well.

Total distance covered were 3, 71 Kilometre and we gained 956 meters in height. (Snake Rock camp at 2140 meters)

Hottest for the day was 26.6ºC and the coldest 8.7ºC, at night.

Today we aim to reach Königstein. In our quest to finally reach the summit we leave behind most of our equipment and only take some food and water in our ruck sacks.  This of course lightens the load immensely and walking is suddenly not so hard and difficult anymore. The tension inside me is building quickly now, as Königstein is the highest point in Namibia, and I would dearly love to reach it.

Climbing low ridges and crossing over small flat plains we gain ground quickly. Suddenly Volker lets out a yell, and as we stop we see a leopard racing away from us. He must have been as surprised as we were, because he is only about 30 meters away from us. A splendid animal, lean with a very dark coat.  We have seen the tracks on the previous day, but now know for sure that there are some live leopards around. He was seen at a height of 2264 meters, and I am very sure that is the highest leopard in Namibia. (Will pass this information to the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, once I am back in Swakopmund again)

At around 09:00 we take a last break, before attempting Königstein. Once we started climbing we do not want to stop, just keep going with an easy and steady rhythm. At 10:30 all four of the team are on the highest point in Namibia.  Sitting around laughing and joking, each takes his turn to fill in the book that is left there for future climbers.

The view from Königstein is like looking from an airplane.  The Spitskoppe, Erongo and several other mountains can be seen in the distance, but it is mainly the immense space that gets to you.  The air feels cleaner and the body is rid of all tiredness in this moment of victory.

Slowly we make our way back to the previous night’s camp. After packing everything again, we decide to go back via another route. Instead of following the Hungurob valley again, we will go the Helm Pools.

Of course I should have known what was coming, but still being on a “high” after Königstein I just walked along. Crossing a saddle we looked down a gorge that will take us to Helm Pools. At first sight it looked really easy, but once we started going down we realised we may have a long afternoon ahead. Big boulders and a lot of vegetation made the going very hard. At 17:00 we reached our camp for the night. It took us 2 hours to descend 300 meters.

We covered 9, 8 Kilometre that day, and descended 773 meters in total.

Camp 3 is situated on a height of 1800 meters.

Hottest temperature was 28 °C and the coldest it got was 4, 3 ºC

After a good nights rest, me and Volker head to Helm Pools. It is a formation of valleys, linked by a small river. We started at camp and walked uphill to the highest valley in search of Bushmen Paintings. Volker found some, however hard we looked, we could not find any more. The area itself is stunning. In these valleys there is a huge array of herbs and plant life.  The little plains that are present are fully covered in Bushmen grass and the effect of the grass waving in the wind is just spectacular.

At 11:00 we were back at camp again, and ready to start the big descend, back to the

Springbuck water camp.

Again the team decides to follow a gorge that will eventually meet up with the big Hungurob gorge. Again it is a small mission just to get down again, get slowed down by plant growth, just to climb the mountain again to get out of the plant growth.

Walking is hard, but the views more then make up for the discomfort.  The rugged and steep valleys with their various colours and shapes keep catching your eye.

Lunch is made at the Bushmen spring, and now the team knows that from here on we will follow a trail.

Another absolutely awesome day comes to an end as we come around a bend and catch sight of our campsite.  After unpacking we walk down to the valley and found some more Bushmen paintings.

Total distance covered, 6, 58 and we descended 616 meters.

Hottest temperature for the day was 27, 5°C and the coldest 7, 3ºC

Once again one can see the plains as we are nearly on their level again. Some 484 meters and we will be on flat ground again.

During the night the team decided that we would go hunting for some more Bushmen Paintings as we descended. The “Lower Accumulation” comprises of quite a lot of Bushmen Paintings and these we would seek once we are on their level.

At 09:00 we split up in teams of two and start searching for these elusive paintings from the past. Steffen found quite a lot during this period, as did Volker and Toralf.

Again the paintings are really impressive and the pictures can be seen very clear. At 11:00 the team start descending the last 200 meters and 12:00 on the 10^th of June we reach our vehicle again.

Distance covered for the day 4 Kilometre.

Hottest temperature, measure until 12:00 only, was 34, 7°C and the coldest for that day was 12, 6ºC.

The Brandberg is truly one of the last wilderness areas in Namibia, due to its rugged and difficult nature.  This in turn protects some of the best Bushmen paintings I have ever seen.

Do not be fooled by the distances covered, as it really does not seem like a lot, but add the height and the terrain of the trails, sometimes no trail at all, and you have a mountain worth climbing.

On average we walked a speed of 1, 56 kilometres per hour. That should say enough of the terrain.

The views, splendour and raw nature presented during the climb will take me back to Brandberg time and time again.

Kobus Alberts | Wild at Heart Safaris

Author: Andries Alberts, Game Warden of Bushmanland and the Nya Nya conservation area. Find out more here.

Tari Kora is one of the many favoured watering holes in the Khaudum National Park. Situated in the northeastern corner of Namibia, the Great Khaudum is 386,400 hectares (nearly 955,000 acres) of unspoiled, unfenced, northern Kalahari, Savannah Woodland wilderness. It is the chosen home of Lion, Leopard, thousands of Elephants, Giraffe, Roan Antelope, Kudu, Oryx, Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Steenbok, Hyaena and a host of bird life far too vast to list.

As the park is unfenced, these great creatures inhabit the Khaudum because they have chosen this place. In the four and a half years I’ve been privileged to reside in Tsumkwe, Tari Kora has provided me and many tourists from around the globe the opportunity to be part of their world, if only for a short while. Pictures capture memories, but it is the watching, waiting and listening in silence that yield the very best returns -

There is a comfortable viewing hide just a few hundred meters from the Tari Kora watering hole for optimum game viewing. Raleigh International, in conjunction with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, constructed the hide in 2001, primarily to be utilized for full moon game counts which are held each September and October for 72 hours. The game counts are essential for accurate recording of wildlife population in the park.

The first full moon game count was held in September of 2002. We had begun our count at another watering hole, Soncana. We were blessed to witness nearly two hundred and fifty elephants that came to Soncana to drink that night, also many Roan Antelope, Kudu and Hyaena. Tragically one elephant cow had fallen into the watering trough the night before our arrival and after hours of trying to free her, as the warden of the Khaudum, Dries knew that she would not survive the trauma, and mercifully she was put out of her misery. Our spirits sank as her struggle ended, and her lifeless body was removed from the site. It was then necessary to await the arrival of more elephants coming to drink to ensure that the disturbance would not deter activity at the watering hole. Indeed another breeding herd came in later that day and we proceeded on to Tari Kora, just 45 kilometers from Soncana.

We arrived before sunset and greeted the others assigned to count at Tari Kora. They told us they had seen a leopard the previous night and we reported our story about the ill-fated elephant. Sunset is the best opportunity to spot predators. We watched, waited and listened, in silence.

Just a few hours later, we saw the most beautiful male lion walk calmly and confidently out of the bush, towards the watering hole. He walked back towards the bush and made a sudden turn. He was chasing something; it was a leopard — and the lion proceeded to chase the leopard into a tree!

It’s rare enough to see one predator, but both in the same place and interacting in this affirmation of authority is almost unheard of. The leopard remained dangling from a tree limb until the lion was finished drinking. We watched the lion as long as light allowed. Eventually the leopard came down to drink, confirming that the lion had left the premises. For many of us it was the first time we had ever seen predators and we all marveled at how lucky we were to see this chase.

The next day was quiet and peaceful as we watched several herds of Roan, Kudu and elephants take turns drinking. Breeding herds would wait until the bulls drank before approaching the watering hole. They knew this was the bulls’ territory. Even a lone Honey Badger visited us that night.

Early the next morning we walked to the installation pump to ensure it was operating properly. We felt sure we heard elephants very near, so we quickly walked around the watering hole where we had seen the lion chasing the leopard. Within a few minutes, Dries jokingly said, “Come on, – before the lions get us.” Glancing cautiously over my shoulder, we walked back to the safety of the hide.

Just minutes after returning to join the group, Dries whispered – “Lions.” Approximately 30 meters from us, a pride of ten, with 2 cubs approached the watering hole. My heart was racing and we quickly made a head count of the people present. One person was missing and was quickly spotted a few meters behind the hide. We motioned to him to remain silent, and to hurry back towards us.

Their silent approach made us understand how prey would be taken completely off guard. First came the lionesses, then the sub-adults and the cubs. The male did not appear until later as he kept watch over the pride approaching the water. One large lioness remained on guard at the water installation pump as the others drank. After about 40 minutes, she too walked to the watering hole and one of the other lionesses retreated to a well-concealed spot in the shade to take her turn keeping watch.

The male was adorned with a multi-colored mane, the blondest light gold surrounding the outer-most part and cascading down his chest in front, forming a billowing V-shape. He seemed to relish in the confidence he had in his lionesses. They guarded their pride with such authority and the cubs never took a step forward without the lionesses first checking, then proceeding forward, looking and acknowledging safe passage for the young ones.

At half past nine the pride left us. One by one they blended back into the golden camouflage of the bush. We felt they had performed this display of their social behavior specifically for us. It is one of the greatest gifts ever received for having just watched, waited and listened in silence.

Seventy-two hours in the great Khaudum. Our elephant’s demise was tragic, but the circle of life continues in one of the last, true wilderness habitats on the planet.

Travel in a better way – Wild at Heart Safaris, Namibia

A story from a man that loves to walk

Author: Andries Alberts, Game Warden of Bushmanland and the Nya Nya conservation area. Find out more here.

Namibia is a country with many faces. If you are so lucky to see only one of these faces you will lead a happy and fulfilled life.

On a Namibian safari I came across this valley. At first it was just this green stretch of trees in the middle of these vast open plains. To compliment this picture further, there was the massive Brandberg in all its glory.
As we followed the two track road towards the river the flat plains gradually became low hills dotted with round boulders. Entering the valley the scenery changes to that of green trees and low shrubs. The campsite is nestled under the trees. Like all camping safaris, the camp has first priority and is pitched as soon as possible.

As soon is everything is prepared and correct according to the Wild At Heart guide, the next part of this safaris starts.Venturing into the dry river that cuts its way through this thirst land to the sea, one starts to appreciate the smaller things in life.

At first walking in the sand is hard, but as soon as you get the knack for it, it becomes so much easier. When walking, one tends to become very personal with nature. Following the tree line, observing the birds in the trees and listening to their joyful singing, you start to appreciate life.

After walking about 5 kilometer we came across the first fresh tracks of the ghosts we were looking for, Desert Elephant. The big round tracks can be seen very clearly, and kneeling down one can see the hairline cracks in the sand. Fresh it is. Keeping the wind in mind the walk becomes a slow amble, eyes forever searching the trees and bushes for that massive grey shapes. Walking out of the river onto a low lying hill, you can get a better idea of this vast and majestic area. On the South bank of the Ugab lays the biggest mountain in Namibia, Brandberg, and The North bank is dominated by plains stretching into the far distance. Dividing these two opposites you have the Ugab River.

Lost in thought you are rudely brought back o the reality when the guide start walking again.

Just into the river and suddenly the guide stops and point to something in the trees. At first your eyes see just the trees and foliage, then suddenly you see slow movement, and there they are the ghosts of the Desert.

Peaceful and happy the herd looks. There is about 4 Elephants in the herd, all adults. Slowly they make their way further down the stream. With utmost care, and always making sure the wind does not blow our scent to them, we follow them. Observing these gentle giants in nature must be one of the purest experiences one can have.

Walking back to our camp, the adrenaline leaves your body and you feel slightly tired. Listening to your guide as he explains this tree or that bird, you realize how much this man must truly love nature and his country. Being on an adventure safari with people like this is truly something special.

Afri-Leo is a Namibian Charity Organization, involved with the plight of lions in Namibia.In conjunction with Wild At Heart Safaris, the “Walk for lions-2008″ was launched from the 30th of April until the 15th of May.

The aim of the trip was twofold:
1. Raise funds for Afri-Leo and;
2. Make people aware of the Human Wildlife Conflict situation in Namibia.

About the Author: Kobus Alberts is 34 years of age and is married with 2 children. He was born in Usakos, Namibia, and is currently living in Swakopmund. He holds a diploma in Nature Conservation and has spent 11 Years of his life living in most of the National Parks and Game Reserves of Namibia. He has most recently been heading up the National Marine Aquarium of Namibia in Swakopmund, a position he held for 5 years and is now a director of Wild at Heart Safaris and Namibian owned travel company unique is that it was established entirely by ex-game rangers with a love of thier country.  email: info@wildatheartsafaris.com

The group that came on the safari consisted out of 14 Swiss Students, 12 Local Namibian Students, 3 Film Crew members and 5 supporters for Terre-Et Fauna, which is a Swiss based charity organization.
The local team consisted of a Wild At Heart Safaris Member, Kaurimbi Expeditions that were involved with all the logistics and Tammy Hoth of Afri-Leo

The Safari started at Kavita Lion Lodge, home of the Afri-Leo Foundation. This was to be our base camp for 2 nights. The activities in this area were mainly an introduction to the whole safari, observing lions while feeding, and the Swiss and Namibian students to get to know each other.
The following two days the group visited the communal area bordering Etosha National Park. The Khoa di //Hoas Conservancy area was the first, and the group walked from village to village and interviewed people in these different villages. The interviews mainly focused on the Human Wildlife Conflict and how it affects these people and their way of life.

That day we covered about 15 Kilometer on foot. Following two track roads all the way, that led to our campsite. The tents were pitched in a big riverbed with huge trees lining the banks. What a nice site it was.

The next day we visited the Chief of the area, and had an interview with him as well. After lunch I decided that we had walked long enough in the two track roads so we took a “shortcut” over a low lying hill. What a shortcut it was! Beautiful views, but quite rough underfoot. At once stage I thought the group is finding it too hard, but looking back I saw just smiles on the sweaty faces.
That night we camped in the Ombonde River, and once again Faan outdid himself with the site.
The next day would be our last in this conservancy areas, as we would head back home and then onto Etosha. We visited a village where a lion was shot recently, and the interviews continued. That night we were back at the Afri-Leo campsite.
The next day was spent interviewing commercial farmers to get their point of view about the lion situation in this area.

The following day we drove to Otjovasandu where we would camp 2 nights. Our campsite was in the Karos area, beautiful savannah area with granite outcrops to break the horizon a bit. Meeting the Warden of the area, we discussed the plan for the following day. We were going to repair a hole in the Etosha Fence that was used often by lions before. The next day was duly spent collecting rocks and building gabions. A gabion is a basket made from wire, in which rocks are placed. This closed the hole, and also reduces erosion. After a long day in the sun, the group headed to camp, and lo and behold a shower. This opportunity was not wasted, as every single person in that camp took a shower that evening.

To Okakuejo we drove, after saying goodbye to the Warden and Rangers of Otjovasandu. After settling in at our new camp, the whole group drove out with the Warden of the area, Mr. Kotting. A lioness was observed on a kill not far from Okakuejo, so the plan was that she would be darted and then worked upon. Once we got the waterhole the excitement could be felt in the air. Everyone was extremely silent; eyes were wary and moving the whole time. To add to all of this, there were thunderstorms in the distance. The lightning bolts added an eerie presence to the whole atmosphere. The lioness were nowhere in sight, so Shane decided to try and call her. The silent night was suddenly alive with the sound of piglets screaming. This sound, according to the Warden, works the best. Sadly that evening no lions were seen or heard.. We did see some jackal and a huge Spotted Hyena that were attracted by the sound.
The following day were spent on the back of a truck, driving around various waterholes. Game that were seen included, Oryx, Blue Wildebeest, Springbuck, Elephant, jackal, Plains Zebra, and even a monitor lizard.
As soon as we reached Okakeujo again, we were told to be ready as a pride of lions were spotted just outside the camp. The warden and veterinarian drove out of sight as we waited for the call to come and join them. Once the call came we drove up, and there he was, a huge golden mane lion. While the veterinarian was drawing blood, every one got off from the truck and had a good look up close. Measurements were taken by the Ministerial staff, and it came out that this male was about 13 years old and could weigh anything from 80 to 86 Kilograms. Its paws and legs were massive and as I knelt next to him I got goose bumps all over my body. This was nature in its purest form, an animal of such beauty and such power, totally unbelievable to be kneeling next to it.

The group left on an extremely high note, feeling content, feeling we have been in touch with nature, seeing the world with new eyes. That night around the campfire there were a lot of talk, mainly in French, but I would say it was about the day we had.
The evening was spent listening to the call of a Pearl Spotted Owl. Wilfred Versfeld, a Senior Biologist in the Ministry has kindly agreed to put up mist nets to see if we can catch some nocturnal birds of prey. At around 23:56 Wilfred came back and he had a Pearl Spotted Owl in his hand. After taking down all the necessary data, we were allowed to touch the bird and hold it. I was fiddling around with its beak when suddenly he bit me. I am not the weakest of men in the world, and have hard fingers due to pipe smoking, but I nearly fainted from the pain. That little bird digs in good and hard, and eventually I managed to loosen it. Lesson learned from that episode, NEVER, EVER put your finger into the beak of an owl. Simple and easy.

The next three days were to be spent an Okonjima, home to the Africat Foundation. This 25 000 Hectare farm currently have over 110 animals present. This ranges from lions, cheetahs, wild dog, to warthogs. Most of these animals have been captured or found by farmers. The Africa Foundation takes care of these animals and also tries and rehabilitates the ones that can be rehabilitated. A noble and just cause. Watching a leopard feed from about 7 meters out is an experience that no one can take away from you. To sit in an open vehicle and stare into the eyes of a cheetah, once again, an experience you will take with you forever.
To end off a wonderful trip at Okonjima, our campsite was close to a swimming pool, and this was ideal for the whole group.

The last night in Windhoek, the Deputy Minister of environment and Tourism, Mr. Leon Jooste, graced us with his presence. The group was allowed to ask questions about everything they have seen and observed during this last 13 days.
After the question and answering session, a great meal signaled the end of the evening.

The “Walk for Lions – 2008″ was a great success. With all its little shortcomings here and there, looking at the bigger picture it was a tremendous event.
Tammy, always smiling, always having a good word to say.
Faan, stern faced, yet kind of heart.
Marius with his never ending questions,
Rodolphe that always wanted to do everything as fast as possible, because he has so much energy to spend,
Michael explaining how to cook and eat Mopane worms,
Anastasia, just enjoying life and the trip.
All of their faces I see in my mind and it bring back happy memories.
Ben, the doctor, always intrigued about his environment, yet always helpful
Little Marie with the generous smile, always kind
Anne-Catherine and Viance, helping the camp hands after each meal.
Catherine of Terre-Et-Faune, always looking and questioning, but enjoying as well.

Thank you all for a wonderful trip and happy memories. It will stay with me, and I am just so glad that Namibia taught all of you so much. Like I said around the last campfire, Namibia will get into your blood.

See you under the big tree again someday.
Kobus Alberts   Wild at Heart Safaris